How Dangerous are Weather Checked Tires?

[REW]

Good plan.
Had a similar situation on my motor home a couple of years ago.
A couple of tires had virtually new tread but were about 7-8 years old. After careful consideration, I decided NOT to replace the tires before a long trip.
Big mistake. Before the trip was out, both tires blew, and caused a lot of body damage when they blew out.

Pretty gloomy feeling to be 75 miles from now where with a blown spare, and another blown tire on the rig.

All is well now, but the rule that I am going by now, is to replace the tires every 5 years - no matter the condition of the tread.

Covering the tires with a covering helps, but doesn't completely stop the aging process of the tires.

For example, one of the tires that blew really had NO visable cracks.
Conversely, one of the other tires that didn't blow - had lots of visable cracks.

The one that had no cracks was the one on the shady side of the rig.
The one that was cracked but didn't blow was on the sunny side of the rig.

Age, I suspect is the factor - even more than the UV.

Take care and be safe.

REW

Just dealt with the same situation with my trucks tires.

Any time the rubber dries out on a tire, it becomes less flexible and checking occurs. At the very onset, it is merely surface checking and only the surface rubber has dried out. The remaining rubber will function well. AS the process continues the checks become deeper and more pronounced, more and more rubber is disfunctional from and operational standpoint. Eventually, the rubber in a particular area loses the ability to handle normal flexing (or with a large bump) and the tire cracks through and a blowout occurs (read very bad news)

Problem is, we are always guessing as to the extent of the degredation of the tires rubber and thus, the probability it will malfunction.

The set of 4 tires might cost $300-$500. How much is the Grady (and your life) worth???

I would err on the side of safety and replace the tires as soon as any checking appears. There are enough inherent dangers that we cannot control in lofe, this is one we ave total control over.

Seems that tires only last about 4-5 years before the effects of UV light and ozone take their toll. I had one set dry rot at 13 months! (No more Armor All or other cleaners/dressings as they have been found to dry out the rubber prematurely)

Silicone grease on the sidewalls.

[Pitts]

Dan if I understand correctly in your post it sounds like they store your rig in a pole barn or shed which should not have sunlight.

I know for a fact that ozone is the #1 rubber deteriorating substance for rubber tires.
I had a bike hung upside down in my garage next to an arcing garage door opener for 2 months and the ozone being created by the opener destroyed both tires in only 2 months. The rubber turned to dust there was nothing left on the bike.
I would suspect that some of the boats stored have battery maintainers on them and are plugged in and with a lot of boats indoors it could add to your problem.

Just a thought.

By all means if you can see the cords through the cracks it is a good time to change.
I would not bother buying expensive tires unless your are planning on selling soon to someone that will trailering it more miles.

Go cheapest and cover up if stored in the sun.
Old carpet or rugs sound like a good idea.

Check the wheel bearings while you are at it because of the non use they will get very rusty and go bad.

Good luck





Pitts

Dan, echo all the advice you have received on this thread thus far. Would also add all tires slowly lose air pressure, specially those tires with alot of stationary weight on them.

Now when your boat is in storage through the winter these tires will lose alot of air which will cause the tire to bulge out and create creases in the sidewall. Look close at these creases and you will find cracks along them very much weakening the tires. After you re-air up the tires, oftentimes these cracks will become hidden and may be why REW had problems with tires he thought were in good shape.

Since I don't have any used tires in bias-ply for your trailer right now, would recommend you buy new ones. Or as someone suggested, maybe you can find some take-off used tires at a tire dealership nearby.

And really, if you have the money, just go buy new ones.

One other thing, another way to get more time out of these tires is to jack the trailer up and put it on blocks. This will keep the pressure off the tires.

[Matches]

What Michelin says is if the cracks are less than 1/32" deep, the tire is OK to drive. Between 1/32"-2/32" is probably OK, but should be watched closely. Any tires with cracks deeper than 2/32" should be replaced.

[Walleye Express]

[b]Thank's for your effort Rick, and to the rest of you guys for your suggestions and remedys. I guess compared to anything else having to do with the fishing hobby, Seven years of use no matter what it's wear factor is getting your monies worth. I told the boys to jack up the trailer, check the bearings and replace the tires before they give her the spring start up routine.

Also thinking about buying those stainless steel skag replacments that fold and wedge on over the top of the original skags on the I.O. lower units. After all this low water the last few years, I have a few bottom mistake scars/chips on the original skags. Anybody ever buy and use these stainless steel replacements? I could have the boys cut off the old and weld on new pre-cut aluminum skags, but the cost is double what the bolt on replacements skag guards are.

[Walleye Express]

[b]Thank's for your effort Rick, and to the rest of you guys for your suggestions and remedys. I guess compared to anything else having to do with the fishing hobby, Seven years of use no matter what it's wear factor is getting your monies worth. I told the boys to jack up the trailer, check the bearings and replace the tires before they give her the spring start up routine.

Also thinking about buying those stainless steel skag replacments that fold and wedge on over the top of the original skags on the I.O. lower units. After all this low water the last few years, I have a few bottom mistake scars/chips on the original skags. Anybody ever buy and use these stainless steel replacements? I could have the boys cut off the old and weld on new pre-cut aluminum skags, but the cost is double what the bolt on replacements skag guards are.

Haven't unsed the replacement skegs. Have seen the ads though, usually with some babe in a tiny bikini---cant remember what they were originally selling after looking at the ad for a minute! :)

[Airwave(OH)]

Dan I have installed several of these for customers and never had anyone say anything bad about it, So I assume they work well. There're still customers :)